“We talk about what’s cool all the time, even though I hate this word. It’s so uncool to use it, but there’s really no substitute.” As the head of the Vetements design collective, Demna Gvasalia has steadily gained a reputation for being the coolest designer in fashion right now. On his search for “cool,” he never looks much further than his own circle of cool friends. They are his personal focus group, in his recent traveling audiovisual presentation they’re the actual voices behind his clothes (he attached speakers to the collection so that it could tell a story), and this same circle became the cast models that walked in his Fall 2015 show at Paris’s famous gay club Le Depot.
Gvasalia thought it important that his Fall collection be shown in a nightclub setting and Le Depot was on a short list of those with an atmosphere and price that was right. “There aren’t so many locations left in Paris that aren’t trying to be chic and posh. They let us make a party after the show for free, so we were able to get friends from Berlin and Moscow to D.J. to play techno and hardcore music that does not exist in Paris.”
Not trying to be chic, is perhaps the foremost overriding theme of Vetements. The best way to describe the aesthetic he’s invented is to list what it isn’t—it’s non-seasonal, non-thematic, non-gender specific, and non-luxury. Though some fabrics on the more luxurious side are used, Gvasalia steers clear of anything that looks visually luxurious or expensive.
What Vetements is really about is authenticity. Gvasalia isn’t trying to invent new silhouettes, so his collections are marked with pieces that anyone could already can name: bombers, denim, tees, trench coats, peacoats. “Even though it’s a challenge, we try to find fabrics that are authentic to these pieces. We’re not trying to be sophisticated, so the authenticity of the materials is important.” Gvasalia went on to explain that so many of his pieces are autobiographical. “An Antwerp T-shirt and a Thrasher sweatshirt had been lying around the office forever. We get inspired by things that we see. There is so much out there already and we’re not trying to make new pieces, so we choose pieces that we instinctively like.”
After a Vetements garment or accessory is made, bought, and sold Gvasalia’s intention is to leave the rest up to its owner. “There’s so many ways to put our pieces together. They’re like legos. We don’t propose total looks. It gives the wearer freedom of choice.”
Makeup Sarai Fiszel, Hair Olivier de Vriendt, Manicure Brenda Abrial, Photo Assistant Ruddy Lepoultier, Assistant Editor Livia Rossi
prev link: https://crfashionbook.com/fashion/g9576496/vetements/
createdAt:Fri, 28 Apr 2017 15:37:32 +0000