Every Look from Peter Do S/S 2022

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Peter Do, formerly of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, had arguably one of the most anticipated NYFW debuts last night on a Brooklyn rooftop against an expansive view of the iconic Manhattan skyline. The designer’s very first collection was entitled “HOME.”

There is always much to unpack when a designer titles their collection. It guides the viewers to view each look through the eyes of the maker who lovingly curated the looks, helping audience members to feel what the creator felt during the design process. Do spent his childhood outside of Ho Chi Minh City and then outside of Philadelphia before moving to New York City to attend the Fashion Institute of Technology, so while it is unclear which city Do is referring to as “HOME,” it’s evident that there are pieces of Do’s heart that he has left all around the world. He has gathered those pieces and distilled them down into one singular, beautiful collection for the fashion industry to preview for the very first time.

Do debuted a chic, wearable selection of pieces that could stand alone in a capsule wardrobe. Minimal isn’t the right word — the collection was a study in tailoring and dimensional layering, strengths of Do’s that have made him both an industry darling and a celebrity favorite (see Anya Taylor-Joy, Zendaya, and Bella Hadid). The designer paid his respects to his Vietnamese roots with looks inspired by the traditional ao dai, drawing guidance from old photographs of his parents and his grandmother, his heritage blazingly proud and present against the classic Americana essence of the Manhattan skyline.

Do says in a press release, “we’ve learned softness is also strength, vulnerability also.” While sometimes collections that lack blatant dazzle and pizzaz can come across as flat in comparison, such is not the case with Peter Do’s debut. He taps into the timelessness of pieces that stretch beyond seasons, a feeling that Philophiles should know well, while still playing with interesting design techniques. A few of the hero pieces of the collection include a white coat and blazer with detailing that mimics clear shards of glass and two finale looks with roses embroidered across the body.

The former LVMH prize winner has already dressed Beyoncé and had his pick of work at any company under one of the biggest fashion conglomerates in the world, but we’d venture to say that his triumphant debut is just the beginning.

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