Historically, the finale is the most important moment of a fashion show. It’s the shiny ribbon on top of a designer’s seasonal gift; a summation of all of the parts and pieces and sweat and tears that complete his or her fashion collection. Rather than focusing on one single, concluding bam, designers this season in New York—during a time when many are questioning the the relevancy of the fashion week–sprinkled spectacle throughout their runway showings as if to say “we’re still here, dammit!”
Stuart Vevers, who has long been affected by Debbie Harry, surprised show-goers with the Blondie star at Coach’s Fall/Winter 2020 event. In what seemed like an abandoned garage on the West Side highway, the creative director served up the heritage brand’s usual fanfare of colored leather looks and cozy shearlings as the garage rock band the Coathangers performed at the center of the room. While models paraded around the day-time mosh session, Vetvers debuted a limited edition collaboration with the estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat, and then—suddenly—Harry took to the stage. Alongside the band, the the singer performed the 1979 hit “Dreaming” as models walked out for the show’s finale.
Later, Michael Kors welcomed guests into a farm house on Wall Street for his Fall/Winter 2020 show themed around a glamorous interpretation of town and country. The designer created what he describes as an “abstract country house” at the New York Stock Exchange, complete with floating wood walls and rural benches. Atop a stage at the center of the space, Orville Peck—the masked country singer who has stolen nearly all of fashion’s hearts in recent months—performed throughout the event as supermodels and Hadids stomped before him. It was a shift from last season’s Brooklyn staging, where Kors enlisted a gospel choir to tackle American politics through song, and a season before that where Barry Manilow delighted in being, well, Barry Manilow. True to Kors nature, the fashion was jet-set appropriate, and some pieces were even made with recycled materials and reclaimed yarns.
As always, Marc Jacobs gave his customary kiss of drama to close out the week. But rather than presenting his Fall/Winter 2020 collection on the clean catwalk that the designer has erected inside the Park Avenue Armory over the last few seasons, Jacobs turned the conservatory into a bistro straight out of a musical. Ninety models intertwined with over 50 dancers to create a La La Land version of a runway show, where looks—and confusion—were abound. Even Miley Cyrus, who has been a longtime muse for the designer, made a cameo in the show, which was themed around chaos and form. It was a tribute to old New York, Broadway, and, performance itself. As Jacobs explained in the show notes: “Referencing my own life and career thus far, it is the fading picture of a disappearing New York that prevails—now foreign and exotic in its extinction, forever mythical and chic with its beauty, promise, sparkle and grit.”END
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createdAt:Wed, 12 Feb 2020 23:21:48 +0000