Building off the ready-to-wear season’s preference for adornment and excess for Spring/Summer 2020, the latest offerings from the haute couture runways highlight a more-is-more attitude when it comes to accessorizing your look–specifically around your face. Dazzling facial adornments including jewels, masks, and makeup itself blurred the lines between beauty and accessory, from reflective glitter around the eyes at Jean-Paul Gaultier’s whirlwind show to veiled eyes sporting graphic liner at Christian Dior.
Perhaps the most saturated trend of the season, glitter has inevitably spilled into several couture shows. At Schiaparelli, the house tapped founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s performative flair in ensembles that combined both pragmatism and extravagance. One of the looks echoed scattered jewel details from the garment onto the décolletage and face for an interesting take on showing some skin.
At the helm of Maison Margiela, John Galliano harnessed the power of the scissor in slicing up-cycled materials and stitching them back together again. Facial accoutrements were presented as veiled hats or a spin on the classic Margiela face mask. Different styles of fabric were utilized to create ethereal texture over the face, complimentary to the garments and a burst of bright lipstick.
Veils also crowned the visages at the Christian Dior couture show, where Maria Grazia Chiuri created a heavenly gathering surrounded by Judy Chicago’s feminist work. Headbands and netting, sometimes evoking gilded gold branches or serpents to play on the goddess theme, accompanied flowing gowns and generous draping.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren adopted the facial accessorizing trend in a whole new light at their eponymous Viktor and Rolf couture show. With looks composed mainly of leftover fabric swatches, a hand-crafted patchwork style presided over the collection. Contrasting delicate prairie girl looks, models were tatted up with face and neck tattoos that read “dream” and “love.”
Unlike the typical invitation-only runway shows, Giambattista Valli prided his couture collection on inclusivity by allowing for a public exhibition of the show at Jeu de Paume in Paris. In terms of the clothes, Valli sought to exaggerate beauty through emphasizing details like juicy bright colors and excessive volume. No less important than the billowing ball gowns, feathered eye masks completed the entire look, some even drawing on specific structural details from the garment.
Accessorizing the face with paintings, tattoos, and piercings has remained a cultural and religious touchpoint for centuries, and this season brings the antiquity of these traditions into a modern light. The cross between makeup and accessory even invaded men’s fashion, with futuristic facial adornments recently making their way down the Louis Vuitton men’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway. While this attention grabbing trend might seem scary to try at first, go ahead and make it your own. With the face as your open canvas, anything is possible.
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createdAt:Thu, 23 Jan 2020 16:34:37 +0000