The arrival of Marc Jacobs’ New York Fashion Week show is always celebrated—and not just because it means the week of runway shows and after parties is finally over. But because the designer has a penchant for reinventing his range each season, often resulting in a theatric display that recalls the most glamorous part of fashion: the fantasy.
Spring/Summer 2019 was no exception. Jacobs created yet another dream world, this time paying homage to the 1960s, replete with towering chignons, voluminous ponytails, and shockingly shaved heads (which explains why model Dilone debuted a buzzcut on the runway just a few days ago). The only way to transform this daydream into a reality? Paint it in Jacobs’ approved colors, of course.
To do that, every single girl in the show had a different-colored coif, dyed in a wide range of faded pastels. That ranged from silver greens and aqua blues to paper whites and Irish reds, all of which were designed by Redken colorist Josh Wood to look like they had an antiquated and historic finish.
Wood bleached the girls first with Redken Flash Lift, then layered a metallic base coat, added the punch of pastel, and finished it all off with a gloss.
“Every girl in the show has had some sort of permanent hair color and Marc signed every single color off himself,” he says. That rings true even for Kaia Gerber, who remained relatively close to her natural hair color.
Wood arrived from London on Sunday and immediately got started on what he calls the biggest color project of his career. He set up shop at Jacobs’ studio and used the office’s sinks to create each of the elaborate dye jobs, some of which took five or six processes to achieve. Wood put the finishing touches on the last model’s mane, which was an inky violet black, mere hours before showtime.
The colorful locks were then spun into retro styles by Guido Palau, also for Redken. He took Jacobs’ direction to focus on ’60s icons such as Barbra Streisand and Lee Radziwill—back when she was just Lee Bouiver. That resulted in a recurring egg shape that can be seen in the up-dos and ever so subtly in the buzzed styles.
So, how do you recreate this look at home? “Well you don’t,” Palau deadpans. “You can take elements of it, like the idea of doing your hair a bit more, but if you want this exaggerated, polished look? I don’t think anyone can do it.”
Those who want to try their hand at these spun chignons or teased ponytails, follow Palau’s lead by spraying Redken Guts 10 Volumizing Spray at the roots, teasing to create this egg-like shape, and adding tons of padding. What might be more attainable are the colors created by Wood, who says that a head of faded pastel hues could be done at the salon in just a day.
Diane Kendal also played with pastel makeup, but she kept the fantasy colors relegated to just the eyes. On a fresh foundation of glowing skin, she did a wash of color over the lids that blended up into the eyebrow. The colors were coordinated to the clothes worn by each girl, with Kendal referencing Jacobs’ color swatches to perfectly match the loose pigments of sheer pink, sunny yellow, and sky blue. In a nod to the overarching ’60s references, Kendal used Marc Jacobs Beauty Magic Marc’er Precision Pen to create a an understated cat eye. As a finishing touch, she brushed each girls’ lips with a coat of clear lip gloss.
Nail artist Jin Soon Choi kept all the fingers and most of the toes totally natural. She gave models a basic manicure, including buffing, shining, shaping, and cleaning up the cuticles.”So many things are going on with the hair and the collection, which has a lot of bright colors. Marc specifically said he didn’t want too much, but he told me wanted grooming for the nails. He’s a perfectionist so something had to be done,” Choi explains.
She did create exactly six colors for the show—a still unnamed range of metallic pastel hues with a satin finish—that was painted on the toenails of just six models.END
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createdAt:Wed, 12 Sep 2018 18:20:36 +0000