Carlotta Oddi already has plenty of titles already on her resume—Milanese style star, longtime fashion editor, and one half of Italian luxury brand Alanui. As the fashion savant attended yet another non-stop tour of shows, presentations, and events in Milan last week, she also is in the process of working on her newest collection of chunky, textured knitwear with her brother Nicolò. Here, Oddi takes CR through her whirlwind Milan Fashion Week.
Tuesday Day One
Milan fashion week is about to start, and you can already feel the energy that will break the city routine for the next few days! I am filling my agenda with shows, presentations, meetings, and events, the days ahead will be exciting and challenging, and I will need to work on my new Alanui Fall/Winter 2018 collection as well, which should be ready in time for Paris Fashion Week. But you know what they say about Milanese people, we are kind of workaholics and we respect our commitments, so I will make it!
The first Milan Fashion Week day started with the unveiling of the Moncler Genius project…Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, and Francesco Ragazzi will mix and mingle the company heritage and DNA with their own vision of the brand in eight special collections for Moncler. The fashion crowd is on fire and we are all there tonight to see this avant-garde and revolutionary presentation, hosted in an extraordinarily huge building just outside the city center. I loved the disruptive Francesco Ragazzi for Palm Angels concept, who created a pop-up space in the venue as gift-shops, with signature neon lights, “Make it rain” slogans and logo items. Bravo Remo, this is GENIUS!
Wednesday, Day Two
Today Camera della Moda Italiana is celebrating the opening of “Italiana—Italy through the Lens of Fashion—1971-2001,” an exhibition at Palazzo Reale curated by fashion critics Maria Luisa Frisa and Stefano Tonchi. It’s a journey of the work and archives of the great fashion icons that made Italian fashion what it is today and is an incredible exercise in the heritage of fashion and beauty, which left everyone impressed.
A quick stop to see the new Blazè collection…Delfina, Corrada, and Sole did an amazing job with their bespoke jackets brand and this season they are presenting a special collaboration with Arizona Muse, which is precious.
It’s time for Gucci, the invitation to the event is a timer that is an official countdown to the show, but despite this, we are all late, as usual. Gucci shocked the audience, the set-up is insane, and suddenly we are all inside a surgery room, very, very bright. Models are walking with a reproduction of their head (scary!) or signature coral snakes and baby dragons—sooo cute—in their arms.
Later in the day, Alberta Ferretti and N°21 shows are not to be missed and I am also ready to meet Elizabeth Sulcer, the uber-celebrity stylist who will be presenting her capsule collection for Miss Sixty. The store in Piazza Duomo is covered by silver metallic fringes and you feel like you’re inside a huge disco ball. Mood Studio 54 is on! Elizabeth is there together with Lara Stone, Jordan Barrett, and Jasmine Sanders, and I discover she owns an Alanui cardigan—she loves the brand. We fix a meeting with her in New York—my brother Nicolò and I will be going there soon!
Thursday, Day Three
Today starts with the Max Mara show, followed by Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Vivetta, Prada, and Moschino, mixed with few presentations that I cannot miss. Francesca Ruffini greets us in her Milan apartment, one of chicest in the city. Her line, For Restless Sleepers, presents beautiful robe de chambre and pajamas in silk, incredible prints, vibrant colors…this collection feels like a sweet caress on your cheeks, soft and warm. It is always a pleasure to be here.
Prada is one of the highlights of the entire week. In the newly inaugurated building by Rem Koolhaas, the extension of Fondazione Prada, we all climb to the fourth floor and are immersed in a very dark space, surrounded by light surfaces which remind me of a black hole. It’s a trip into Miuccia’s world; the collection is powerful and strong. Acid tones and flashy colors contrast with the darkness of the venue; hard and soft fabrics merge organically. Those cocoon coats are stunning and the floral dresses are simply beautiful.
Later, colors are also the protagonist of the Moschino show. This season, Jeremy Scott presents his collection which is a mix of Pan Am, ’60s, Space Age allure, and a Black Mirror episode. Tailored suits and dresses in bright colors are worn by a stunning casting. Giga, Bella, Joan, Kaia—they’re all there on the catwalk.
It’s been a long day and I deserve a drink and I am sure I will find the perfect atmosphere at the Santoni Edited By Marco Zanini presentation. Hosted in a classic Milanese palazzo, Zanini presents the collection with his usual elegance and understated vision. Clothes are hanging from the ceiling and shots by Karl Kolbitz (yes, the one who recently art directed the cult book Entryways of Milan with Taschen) are pure magic. It’s quintessential Milano.
Friday, Day Four
Early wake up call for Tod’s today, which is showing at 9:30 a.m., followed by Roberto Cavalli. Soon after Brognano, one of the new Italian designers supported by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, I am heading to Marco De Vincenzo, which I am a big fan of. I loved the chunky outerwear and the beige and brown damier print, as well as the final looks with the rainbow shades. Quick stop to meet my friend Marcelo Burlon—he’s been one of my mates during these past days—and I am ready to head for a fitting to the Tommy Hilfiger suite at Palazzo Parigi. Tommy is hosting its show for the first time in Milano, and everyone is quite excited to see this spectacular event.
One of the other new brands in town is Alevi, which was created by my friend Valentina Micchetti, is presenting for the first time in the city. Great red carpet styles, a lot of patent leather, high feminine heels mixed with a super cool Los Angeles vibe. Can’t wait to wear one of those gems.
Last show of the day is Versace, which keeps on exploring the stunning history of the brand. A tribute to Gianni is always good, and Donatella knows it. Her women are independent, fierce, and incredibly hot. Modern suffragettes empowered by their femininity and glamour. No time for parties tonight—I am going back to the Alanui headquarters to work on my new collection.
Saturday, Day Five
It’s Giorgio Armani day! Giorgio classic tailoring is always a beautiful start of the day. I might not be as minimal as he is and his style might be quite far from mine, but this doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate the creations and the coherence of this amazing brand. Missoni, Jil Sander, and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini will fill the afternoon, but soon after I need to get ready for the big event of tonight. Anna Dello Russo is presenting a book and hosting a great night, the event of Milan fashion week.
Everything starts at 8:00 p.m. with an auction of some of her iconic wardrobe pieces, followed by a dinner with Swarovski, and a late night party. The venue is an abandoned palazzo in the very center of the city, which was the headquarters of the Milanese police in the past. A huge courtyard is covered by the typical lights from Puglia, the region in the South of Italy where Anna comes from originally. ADR-shaped balloons are at the center of the courtyard and inside the venue a group of top models, influencers, and icons are trying to sell Anna’s clothes at a higher price doing the runway and captivating the audience. Anna is in the middle, with a pink dress and the famous Gareth Pugh feathered hat—one of her most recognizable pieces.
Sunday, Day Six
Last but not least! Milan fashion week is coming to an end. After a party-filled night, Marni is always a good recovery, even if seen through sunglasses. Francesco Risso is confirming his personal vision on the brand, the set-up is as unexpected as usual, big sacks and pillows are quite cozy, and above all, the very recognizable color-block outfits are back in the house! Heading to Emporio Armani and soon after lunch, to MSGM, which celebrates Milano with a playful collection of logo-mania of iconic bars and venues of the city.
Quick stop for a coffee at Marchesi and soon to the cocktail for the opening of the Attico pop-up store at the Larusmiani boutique in via Monte Napoleone to meet and greet with my friends Gilda and Giorgia and the host of the night, Guglielmo Miani. Intimate atmosphere, beautiful feminine dresses, a chic boudoir scene, and a nice crowd. Congrats girls, you are doing a great job!!
Now I am going home, but wait, I am not going to get some rest as I need to choose my outfit for tonight’s last show. Milan is about to host its first ever Tommy Hilfiger show. The U.S. brand will present its Tommy Now collection in the city and it will be the last one in collaboration with Gigi Hadid. My brother is ready to join me at the show and, wow, as soon as we enter the venue we are in the middle of a F1 race pit. The show is pure energy: Daft Punk pumped at high volume to open the show with the complete Hadid clan hitting the runway. Hailey Baldwin, Winnie Harlow, Chris Combs, and Cordell Broadus are also there. Tommy and Gigi close the show for the last time, applauded by nearly 2,500 people.
Some friends convinced me to stop at Garage Italia, a former gas station turned into a fancy bar and one of the hot spot in the city by chef Carlo Cracco and Lapo Elkann, where he is hosting a party for his sunglasses line Italian Indipendent. Just a sip and then home.
Monday, Day Seven
It’s just another manic Monday, but not for me. Today I am totally up for a beauty treat… I am about to try to world famous gold masks by Mimi Luzon to get ready for Paris. It felt so good to start the next fashion marathon with a rejuvenated and vibrant skin. Adrenaline is spinning again, so Arrivederci Milano, Bonjour Paris!END
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