While a slew of designers are trading New York for Paris, something about Tom Ford being back on the New York Fashion Week calendar just feels right. The inaugural show of the Spring 2018 season comes after a series of the designer’s experiments with formatting. There was the see-now-by-now strategy of Fall 2017, Fall 2015 in Los Angeles, Spring 2011’s presentation with no social media allowed (despite Beyonce’s spot on the lineup), and years of London-based runways, and years of runway shows in London, where he’s lived for the majority of his time since launching his namesake brand. In a sense, last night was set up in a traditional way, yet it was the opposite of boring. It was Fucking Fabulous, actually, which happens to be the name of his latest fragrance that accompanied the show invites.
Walking into the Upper East Side’s Park Avenue Armory around 8 P.M., it was clear by the mountain of paparazzi outside that Ford’s regular crew of celebrities was in attendance—Kim Kardashian West, Julianne Moore, and Ciara, to name a few. And per usual, supermodels not only filled the face chart backstage but the audience, too. Looking at you, Karlie Kloss and Cindy Crawford. It wasn’t until the lights dimmed and David Bowie’s “Fame” blared that fashion week really commenced.
Binx Walton opened the show, kicking off a series of nostalgic-but-fresh looks, including the chainmail top she wore under a rose-gold blazer, draped across her shoulders as if our editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld styled the look herself. (Of course she was backstage working with Ford, as she has been since her days at Gucci with him in the ‘90s.)
Following came many more sensibly shoulder-padded suiting pieces that are quintessential to Ford’s brand and beloved by his longtime customer. This round, he designed them in unexpected fabrics and textures like denim and hot pink velvet, prompting major flashbacks for his biggest fans. (Anyone else remember the red velvet Gucci suit worn by Gwyneth Paltrow?) Otherwise, there were exaggerated sleeves, bodysuits, glittering sequin mini dresses, and lots of bare, long legs, but every look was punctuated by a pair of bright stilettos—from hot pink to royal blue.
The mood (and music) shifted when part two highlighted his eveningwear worn by Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Joan Smalls, among others. Between the classic, ruched silhouettes, futuristic accents, and sexy net fabric that was more sheer on some looks than others, it’s obvious that you can expect to see these gowns on the red carpet in no time. Perhaps on Julianne Moore herself? Plus, there were even more tailored suit options, which we’re exciting about. No more borrowing from the boys.
Binx also closed the show and in lieu of a finale, Ford graciously bowed and the after-party began. The entrance had been transformed into an adult playground for attendees kitted out with Instagram-worthy photobooths, champagne at every angle, and most prominently, shirtless male models at our service. Not a bad way to kick off the fashion marathon.END
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