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Palais Galliera Discovers Modern Fashion Photography in Amsterdam – ts.kux.de

Palais Galliera Discovers Modern Fashion Photography in Amsterdam

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Fashion photography memorializes style and imagines the stories behind the designs. Across history, mode pictorials have become increasingly dynamic and faceted, offering new views of design. Tracing the modern evolution of the form, the City of Paris Fashion Museum, the Palais Galliera presents its latest showcase: Outside Fashion—Fashion Photography from the Studio to Exotic Lands (1900–1969). The comprehensive exhibition draws from the archives of the French institute to fully explore the fashion photography genre. Held off-site at the Huis Marseille, Amsterdam’s first photography museum, while the Galliera undergoes expansion, the presentation highlights more than 150 images, including many never-before-shown photographs, to discover the medium’s recent advancements.


Outside Fashion uncovers how the photographic form has become more open-ended since the turn of the century, exchanging static studio images for bold locations and intrepid movement alongside changing design horizons. Focused on the period between 1900 and 1969, the showcase includes works by pioneering photographers Jean Moral, Henry Clarke, Henri Manuel, Reutlinger, Séeberger Frères, Dorvyne, Egidio Scaioni, and Willy Maywald. Fashion history itself is also on display—images of iconic designer looks pay homage to the visions of Hermès, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior.

The show’s vintage imagery chronicles the move away from black-and-white and silver gelatin prints to color studio pictorials. Then, the later shift towards photos on location and in motion is also revealed. “Some moments in history were turning points when fashion photography became freer and more creative,” curator Sylvie Lécallier tells CR. “In the ’30s, reportage and street photography, and small cameras, allowed fashion photography to be more instantaneous and realistic.” The photojournalistic and documentary work of Jean Moral during this time reflects a confident and free-spirited femininity.

Stylistic shifts began to emerge within the medium. Earlier photo settings, which were created with painted backdrops and props, were exchanged for more natural backgrounds. Diverse, worldly settings, such as Parisian streets, came into favor to add character to imagery. Posed photos in conservative attire gave way to progressive settings and looks, as seen in the contrast between images from the Longchamp races and Maurice Tabard’s poolside Hermès swimsuit ensemble.

Throughout the ‘40s, portrayals of women and fashion continued to broaden as shown in American photographer Clarke’s models in varied outdoor settings. Then by the ‘50s, tourism and travel breathed life into a quest for the exotic that carried into style pictorials. In the next decade, the images became their own stories, marking a pivotal era for modern fashion photography.

In 1964, Clarke travelled to India and launched a series of 27 colorful images that became landmarks of photo history with their revolutionary approach: vibrant settings, bold designs, and artful depictions. Over the next few years, he continued his photographic travels to Brazil, Syria, Jordan, Ceylon, Turkey, Mexico, Spain, and Iran. In the process, Clarke created a new mode of chic images that bridged Eastern and Western culture with prêt-à-porter. The exhibition features his work against a lush, tropical installation, reflecting a unique vision that has informed the course of fashion photography.

Contemporary images of style continue to transform alongside the fashion industry and culture at large. “In the ‘60s, fashion photography lost its informative character to develop narrative forms and fiction. In the ‘90s, photography explored new territories, those of intimacy and anti-glamour,” says Lécallier. “These steps show the evolution of fashion photography and how it opens up to the world.” Outside Fashion reveals how style imagery is more than a reflection of design—its portrayals are their own force of progress within the present moment.

Outside Fashion—Fashion Photography from the Studio to Exotic Lands (1900–1969)is on view until March 8, 2020 at the Huis Marseille in Amsterdam.


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createdAt:Fri, 06 Dec 2019 17:39:13 +0000
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