In high fashion, there’s almost no such thing as effortless beauty. From facial treatments that leave your complexion dewy and luminous to the perfect winged eyeliner, experts reveal their most-trusted, insider hacks for CR‘s series, Beauty Secrets.
For the first 21 years of her life, Mary Greenwell never wore a stitch of makeup. She had a friend who was opening a Fiorucci store in Los Angeles during the 1970s and one day, he asked if she’d represent and work concessions for the makeup line Pre Rouge. “I had a ‘Are you serious?’ look on my face,” Greenwell tells CR. “I’d never worn makeup before.” She moved to New York, where she started working with Ilana Harkavi, who owned Il Makiage and inspired more people to do complete makeup lines. Greenwell had a friend who launched an agency in London and she started doing tests with the models. She began working with Patrick Demarchelier, Paolo Roversi, and Peter Lindbergh and moved to Paris in 1984. She was eventually enlisted by Diana, Princess of Wales, to revamp her image and together, they created some of the most well-known photographs of the People’s Princess during the ’70s.
“It was a special time to be in Paris,” Greenwell says. “I remember I was sitting at a cafe and 16-year-old Christy Turlington was walking towards me. Then, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and Tatiana Patitz arrived. I remember saying, ‘Oh my goodness. They’re so beautiful.'”
Here, CR catches up with the makeup artist about her take on “Instagram makeup,” her favorite look she’s done for Diana, and how her makeup aesthetic has changed throughout the years.
Walk me through your skincare routine.
“I’m very spoiled. I do a lot of my routine in the bath in the morning. I wash my face with a very gentle cleanser, Exuviance Gentle Cleanser Creme and I always using a lovely warm flannel. Then, I’ll put on the Rose Gold Brightening Facial Mask by 111 Skin. If I don’t have time to use a whole mask, I’ll do the Sub-Zero De-Puffing Eye Mask. They actually stay on your skin instead of falling off, which drives me crazy. Then, I use Body Excellence Lotion by Chanel. After taking off the mask, I’ll use my Clé de Peau Enhancing Eye Contour Cream followed by a serum. I’m loving the Vitamin C Brightening Booster by 111Skin. Then, I use the 111Skin Space Anti Age Day Cream and the Sensai Essence. It’s like an essence splash. It’s wonderful and I’ll use the products on top of that. For night, I use the 111SkinBlack Diamond Retinol Oil and Sensai Extra Intensive Mask instead of a night cream.”
Favorite makeup products?
“I’m using the Chanel Les Beiges Water Tint. It comes out looking like curdled egg; it’s an incredibly light foundation. I believe in concealer rather than foundation, so that’s what I am using. I simply adore the new Armani concealer. Then, I’m using the Sensai Designing Duo Bronzing Powder and the Chanel Les Beige Les Indispensable Eyeshadow. They have quite a lot of colors so pick however dark I want my eyes to be. Or, I use the Lorac Palette you can have customized with all these different colors. My favorite mascara in the world is Sensai Lash Volumiser 38 °C. It comes off with a flannel with water at 38 °C. My favorite lipstick of all time is MAC Cosmetics Cremesheen Lipstick in Cremé in Your Coffee.”
Do you have a favorite look you’ve ever done?
“There’s one picture on my Instagram account of Linda Evangelista with very blonde hair and it almost looks like Instagram makeup. It’s so full-on, with a dark, black eye and a very pale mouth. It looks so modern and of-the-moment now. It was taken in the ‘80s with Patrick Demarchelier and Oribe did the hair. Also, all the looks I do on Cate Blanchett.”
What kind of look does Blanchett usually go for?
“The thing is, she’s not an Instagram model so it’s not about that full-on Instagram makeup look. It’s just about making her look more beautiful than she already is.”
You worked frequently with Princess Diana throughout your career. What’s your take on her makeup look?
“She was very ethereal and very chic. It was more her personality; she was incredibly long-limbed, tall, and fabulous, so you didn’t have to do too much to the princess to bring out her beauty. What I always do is enhancement; I don’t really do a makeup look. That’s what I love about the Linda Evangelista look, because I think I am known more for my beauty makeup. What we did when [Princess Diana] went to the Met Ball was incredible. She didn’t need much makeup, because she was so beautiful.”
What do you think about “Instagram makeup”?
“I think it’s amazing, it’s wonderful, it’s just not my style. All the tutorials and editorials on what people do on Instagram is incredible and good for them. It’s brought makeup more into the realm of fashion and beauty. It’s indispensable. Everyone wants more makeup now. For people in the industry, it’s a great thing. Do I want to go there? No. Do I need to go there? No, because I don’t work with that type of look. For example, I love Mario Dedivanovic, Kim Kardashian’s makeup artist. He’s divine.”
How have you seen your aesthetic evolve?
“When I first started doing makeup in the ‘80s, it was such a different industry. I went away to Hawaii for 10 days for two stories. That would never happen today. We had so much time; there was no rush and no panic. It was more relaxed and more fun, but now everyone is pushing forward to the next thing. My makeup has changed in that I have become much smarter, but we used to go into the studio in the morning and just do hair and makeup. There was never hair and makeup working together; it was hair first, and then makeup. My makeup has gotten faster, but I used to have the time to understand different products. In the past, it was really about what we wanted to do. Now they come in with a brief of what we’re doing. The business has become much more of a business. In some ways it’s great because you just go back to your heritage when you were younger or just trust that everything is going to be great.”
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createdAt:Wed, 29 May 2019 21:53:38 +0000