The designers who participated in New York Fashion Week Men’s for the Spring 2018 are, for the most part, names you might not know. After all, is only the fifth fashion week dedicated to menswear in the Big Apple. Contributing to the sparse show schedule were a number established brands opting to abandon New York for Europe, but their departure has made room for burgeoning talents and experimentation, both of which were on full display this past NYFWM.
The major designer opting for a reverse transatlantic commute is Raf Simons, following his appointment to Calvin Klein. Simons doubled down on his commitment to NYC, also announcing that collections for his namesake men’s label will be shown stateside. His first show took place this past Tuesday in a shopping mall under the Manhattan Bridge. It was an ode to multiculturalism, mixing his Belgian savoir-faire with the archetypes of Chinatown. It was part and parcel of Raf’s expansive reimagining of what it means to look American.
When Simons made his Calvin Klein debut, critics roundly hailed it as a brilliant and dystopian parody of Americana. The collection was a retrospective of American adolescent style, and a celebration of the already well-under-way millennial youthquake. Raf is the anchor of this NYFWM, and the scrappy young labels filling up the other 50 slots on the schedule are following his lead. Many of them are also immigrant designers who aren’t shy about speaking out about the state of American culture and politics.
Subtle political commentary and even overt protest were the order of the day for the Fall Season. But as we settle into the Trump era Raf’s satirical wink at American culture is more in vogue. Here are some of the best looks from NYFWM:
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createdAt:Tue, 11 Jul 2017 19:47:57 +0000