British designer label Erdem is making waves. The label has launched its first menswear collection for Spring 2022, complete with wardrobe classics, breezy collarless shirts, rich cashmere knits and sharply tailored jackets.
Founder Erdem Moralioğlu launched his eponymous London-based label in 2005 where he has since cultivated a cult following for his decadent dresses that are often inspired by the romantic bygone eras.
Yet, Moralioğlu confesses “I always felt like there was space for [men] in this woman’s world that I’d created.” Months of lockdown gave Moralioğlu ample time to dream up his man, which he describes as a brother to the Erdem woman. “The brother that kind of steals her sweaters and other pieces of her clothing and adopts them for himself,” said Moralioğlu.
For the house’s debut menswear collection, Moralioğlu found inspiration in the late filmmaker Derek Jarman’ works. The uniform dressing in Jarman’s films particularly captured Moralioğlu’s imagination. Jarman in his ubiquitous boiler suit, by the beach in Dungeness, on the south coast of England, is a vision from distant dreams. Moralioğlu shot the lookbook, and an accompanying film, recreating the moody landscapes of Jarman’s works.
Moralioğlu was also inspired by the works and sketchbooks of British watercolor painter Patrick Procktor. The designer said Procktor’s look inspired him to create wardrobe classics for the Erdem man. The entire collection is unmistakably Erdem, with lots of rich cashmere knits in jewel tone colors, mohair sweaters with thick stripes, sharply tailored jackets with fabric-covered buttons and ankle-length, flat-front trousers, chinos and corduroys worn with, or without, a cummerbund. Moralioğlu said he has borrowed a lot of the same knitwear, shirt and outerwear lexicon from Erdem’s womenswear styles.
“It’s as utilitarian as it is romantic,” said the designer. “There’s a youthfulness to it as well. There’s something quite relaxed … There’s almost a slouchiness to it, but also something very romantic.”
Click through the gallery below to see the entire collection.
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createdAt:Wed, 16 Jun 2021 19:13:15 +0000
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