All season, designers have been looking for the most ideal and chic way to communicate their excitement and trepidation for returning to the runway after over a year of pandemic restrictions. For his part, Max Mara Creative Director Ian Griffiths looked back to the beatnik era for inspiration. More specifically, he took inspiration from the famed French playwright François Sagan. While designing this latest collection, he recalled a time when Françoise Quoirez, a wild teenager, having failed her baccalauréat at age 17, was forced to forego the annual family summer vacation in order to stay home and study. While she was being deprived of those lazy, relaxing months at the beach, she decided to go there with her imagination. Under the pen name Françoise Sagan, her cerebral summer took the form of the literary masterpiece ‘Bonjour Tristesse,’ which rocked the societal status quo. Thus, Griffiths aimed to channel both her intellect and rebellious nature, as well as the hedonism and glamour that was embedded into her lifestyle and literature into his latest show for Spring/Summer 2022.
Impeccably styled by CR Fashion Book founder and creative director Carine Roitfeld, the 46-look collection was classic Max Mara, with a summery twist. Simply put, it was a stunning array of luxurious basics and classic silhouettes in a neutral color palette, but with a few pops of color and novel, youthful fabrics. The opening looks, donned by a blonde Vittoria Ceretti and reigning CR Fashion Book cover star Adut Akech, epitomized traditional European glamour. In black and cream, respectively, they featured an elegant, yet simple mini dress, peacoat, and espadrilles.
However, Griffiths stepped outside of the traditional Max Mara color palette on numerous occasions. For instance, a mandarin orange leather skirt, crop top, and trench traipsed down the runway, no-doubt awakening the audience’s retinas and getting them excited for spring, approximately six months too early. Similarly, an all-yellow matching set, featuring a leather skirt, bandeau, and short-sleeve jacket was equal parts luxurious and fun, playing directly into the aesthetic of show’s Beatnik muse. There was also a significant exploration of denim in this collection, which came in the form of matching sets, jackets, and dresses. The use of this traditionally youthful and casual material in such clean designs evoked a dual sense of teenage rebellion and classic sophistication.
Not only did the show feature a slew of notable models, including Irina Shayk, Gigi Hadid, and Cara Taylor, but it was also attended by a host of high-profile guests, including actress Zazie Beetz, who is the 16th recipient of the WIF Max Mara Face of the Future Award, which recognizes both her superb acting and her personal embodiment of style and grace. Known for films such as Deadpool 2 and Joker, as well as her starring role on FX’s hit show Atlanta, Beetz is the ideal representative of Max Mara’s inspiration and aesthetic this season. Her effortlessly glamorous aura and ungovernable style perfectly encompass Sagan’s character as well as Griffiths’ collection.
Click through to see every look from the Max Mara Spring/Summer 2022 show.END
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