Tom Ford may have brought the glitz last night at the David Koch Theater at Lincoln Center, but if you were looking for serious, dark, classic 90s allure, you’ll find yourself coming up empty when it comes to that sort of glamour. Instead, we see a new Tom Ford: true to his iconic design ethos but playful, unserious.
Styled by our very own Carine, models strutted to a remix of Aretha Franklin’s Respect as guests sat on white couches that lined the white carpet runway. Guests may have worn suits and ties, but Ford fully embraced functional athletic wear as part of his Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Low-slung glitter sweats replaced low-rise denim, paired with sports bags and slouchy racerback tanks, but the athletic pants were belted at the top and cuffed by the ankle straps of an open-toe stiletto sandal. Basketball shorts made several appearances at a just-above-culotte length, not made of perforated sweat-wicking material but shimmering sequins. The looks are indeed polished, but that is thanks to the touch of Tom Ford rather than, say, the inherently polished nature of the direction of some of his previous collections. Spring/Summer 2022 was a little more relaxed — brightly confident, unbothered, and unworried about being serious and sexy. It’s simply alluring in its own right.
Asymmetrical zippers swept across ruched tops in the moto-jacket style that reigned in the 2010s and velvet blazers (a classic Tom Ford fabric and cut) were paired with long androgynous shorts in royal blues and magentas. Button-downs were tied open and low, leather was spray-painted, and metallic racerback dresses were styled with matching sweaters cinching the waist as the extra volume exaggerates the swing of the hips. It is, for all intents and purposes, a collection that’s meant to be viewed in motion. The pounding music and mirrored set-up reflecting the light bouncing off of each blinged-out piece is an immersion for the senses. It’s all clearly Tom Ford, just a little brighter.
Models strutted down wearing layers of chains and bling around their necks, with tight chignons and oversized logo barrettes ready for their Instagram close-up. The hair clips are a nod to a younger generation, as the collection plays with the exaggeration of excess in an age of snap-able moments and increasingly over-the-top sensationalism. The updos are sleek and slicked back because while slouch may be the moment for the clothing, there’s no margin for error in the hair department – it’s sharp, it’s hard, and it’s paired with blue glitter basketball shorts as if to say, “so?”
According to makeup artist Diane Kendal, “[Tom Ford’s] inspiration was actually his 1996 runway show.” The cheekbones are sharply contoured, the eyelids are smoked out and shimmering, and the lips are a seductive neutral pout. It’s mussed and undeniably sexy, bringing to life everything from the head-to-toe leather looks to the sweatpant pencil skirt (would that be a sweat-skirt?) with the drawstring waistband. Instead of blazers, we get bombers; instead of bodysuits, slinky racerback tanks. The final consensus of the show that closed New York Fashion Week? She’s deeply cool, casually sexy, and ready to jump in as the life of the party in sequin joggers and sky-high heels.END
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createdAt:Mon, 13 Sep 2021 15:54:35 +0000
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