It was only last year when designer Jean Paul Gaultier announced his retirement and shortly followed up with a spectacle of a runway show – well, considering it encompassed over 150 looks, it should’ve been labelled a sartorial theatric – that would be his last. Innovative and provocative, the “enfant terrible” paved his own course (one filled with corsetry and fashionably disruptive concepts) and became a pop culture sensation à la Madonna’s conical bra. It’s evident that his intuition or more so inclination to go against the grain was a large part of his sartorial identity. And while he’s no longer directly in charge at the house, his unconventionality is still bleeding through – enter his new couture concept.
Two months after his leave, Gaultier announced on Instagram that the house would invite a guest designer to interpret the Jean Paul Gaultier codes for Haute Couture. Chitose Abe, the founder and creative director of Japanese label Sacai and prior pattern cutter and designer for Comme de Garçon, is the first one to start this collaboration.
Established for her collaged designs (Sacai is most known for piecing together different fabrics, patterns, and silhouettes) and streetwear sensibility, Abe’s mentality doesn’t exactly touch on the avant-garde imagery of Gaultier. However, their unorthodox thinking make the designs parallel and the collection is a clear marriage between the two.
Abe’s vision for the house’s Fall 2021 couture is reserved in color scheme, but not in construction. Coated in earth tones, the palette doesn’t downgrade but emphasizes the intricate cuts, dramatic proportions, and interwoven concepts. Gaultier Easter eggs are seen with a pinstriped corset, the conical bustiers attached to the utilitarian gowns, expansive tulle, and the head pieces. Abe’s interweaving technique is also spotted with dresses and outwear fusions like the trench and puffer coats and bomber jacket transformed into gowns.
Click through the gallery to view the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2021 collection.END
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createdAt:Wed, 07 Jul 2021 13:44:35 +0000
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