The Magical Marc Jacobs Look

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The unveiling of Marc Jacobs’ beauty look has become something of a New York Fashion Week tradition. Each season, editors gather at their allotted press time to be taken backstage to witness the designer’s latest head-to-toe vision. It’s the only show that François Nars is willing to roll out his makeup brushes for and hairstylist Guido Palau says he looks forward to it every single year. Palau says it’s because Marc’s preferred aesthetic plays into the fantasy of fashion and this means that together the three seasoned pros can just let go. “People sometimes ask me how to replicate a Marc Jacobs look at home and the answer is that you don’t,” laughed Palau before today’s show. “We’re making a Marc Jacobs statement here: You can’t try this at home.”

The legwork for this season’s particularly outlandish look started in July. Marc was inspired by his friend Lana Wachowski’s hair, which is full of woolen dreadlocks dyed in pink and blue, and asked Palau where they could find similar hair pieces—to which he had no clue. Google proffered the unlikely answer in the form of Florida-based, Jena Counts—a self-proclaimed Etsy mom who started “Dreadlocks by Jena” under a year ago. Jena was making the custom-cut dreads as a side hobby out of her home when Guido got in contact and persuaded her to take on her biggest order yet for the Spring 2017 show. She agreed to make 12,500 individual dreadlocks and dye them according to Jacobs’ precise instructions in varying tones of ombré pink, purple, blue, yellow, and green. Jacobs then flew Jena and her two daughters to New York and rented an apartment for them near his house, so that he could tweak the final colors of the dreadlocks up until the day of the show.

Japanese Harajuku girls, ravers, acid house dancers, travelers, Boy George, and Marilyn Manson in the ‘80s were among some of the other varied references that Jacobs gave Guido and Nars, but the end result—they all agreed—needed to be a streamlined kind of crazy, rather than a complete mish-mash of a look. “My main goal is to always make girls look beautiful, no matter what,” said Nars backstage. “So there needs to be a balance between the hair and makeup. This year, the hair took the center stage, so I had to come up with makeup that kept the whole thing feeling fresh, rather than totally mad.” To do this, he matched the color of Jena’s dreads to the color of the makeup and created six different looks, each with a soft pastel eye and brown—not black—false eyelashes. “We wanted the eyes to have some definition, but not to be heavy or obvious,” he explained. “Then lipgloss, some foundation, and nothing on the brows.”

To end, Nars gave some advice that we could take home: Whatever you put on your face, body, or hair, he said, take a step back and survey yourself as a whole before you complete the look. If it feels like two elements are competing for attention they probably are, so go back and try again. Eventually, you’ll find the sweet spot between casual eccentricity and just plain crazy.

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createdAt:Thu, 27 Jul 2017 18:04:40 +0000
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