Simon Porte Jacquemus left the white horse behind this season, but that’s not to say that his theatrics were entirely put to rest. What at first sounded like a sound check malfunction turned out to be intentional frequent pauses throughout the show’s soundtrack; You might describe this “style” of music as deconstructed, which works just fine alongside the designer’s dismantled approach to design. Whatever method of deconstruction he chooses, the result is always sexy without being overly feminine and downright effortlessly cool. The lighting was a bit touch and go too, leaving us, quite literally, in the dark when it came to find our seats and for portions of the finale.
Hectic though it may be, nothing about Jacqueus is ever accidental—from his freaky sound effects right down to his lighting short circuits. Tonight, he succeeded in creating a heavy energy in the show space. Past collections have oscillated from playful to sorrowful, but this time it could best be described as powerful. There were some reoccurring Jacquemus themes, like a slouchy navy pinstripe suit that was held together by a row of asymmetrical bows. It wasn’t far off from the suit that opened his Spring 2016 show—perhaps a deliberate way to show his critics that he won’t change his tune. (Or it could just be a new take on a fan favorite.)
Another relapsing theme that has always been at the very core of Jacquemus is his injection of humor. Tailoring gave way to comically large, boxy shoulders—his 2016 power suits that come stuffed with a gingham tablecloth-print pocket square. The straps of glittery ruffled dresses were made with wire hovered so that they well above the shoulders. In one look, said glittery dress wasn’t worn but was stuck sideways onto a monochromatic navy look, an alternate use for a dress reminiscent of Rei Kawakubo. Amidst some of the harder to wear pieces (like an asymmetrical dress that leaves one nipple exposed) were several pieces of knitwear, pants, and skirts that are going to fly off the shelves this season. And to that we say: Simon, never change.END
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