During his three-year tenure as Dior Makeup’s image director, Peter Philips has collaborated with three sets of designers on approximately seven couture shows. Today marked his first with Maria Grazia Chiuri—the only female to ever assume creative control of the house—and the beauty concept the duo settled on was a marked departure from the graphic looks the makeup artist crafted for temporary designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux during Dior’s transitory phase last year.
Inspired by the romantic spirit of pre-Raphaelite beauty, today’s final effect was dreamlike with a scintillating, shimmery glow. Perhaps a quiet reminder that Chiuri is dedicated to setting individual character over societal expectations of what it means to be a woman today, every model’s look differed ever so slightly. On some, star-shaped sequins were placed on the inner eye corner, on others, they cascaded down cheeks—a choice dependent on which elaborate Stephen Jones headdress rested atop the head.
In a post-show statement, Philips explained that he used “the mysterious atmosphere and the play on seduction in this collection, which presents the ‘hide and reveal’ aspect of a masked ball,” as the starting point for the look. “This is a young woman with a modernized pre-Raphaelite beauty,” he added. “It was essential to emphasize her soft luminosity and sensuality.”
To do this in practical steps, Philips utilized a small artillery of Dior products, old and new. Skin was initially prepped with Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear Primer, before foundation was applied sparingly as needed. Cheeks were then “perked up with a light rosy cloud of Diorblush #756,” and luminizer was blended “at strategic points: the brow bone, the bridge of the nose, the Cupid’s bow.” Lashes were left untouched, but eyelids received a uniformed dusting of a natural shadow and a line of beige-colored kohl. Lips—the final stop—were scrubbed and then discreetly plumped up with lip lacquer in ’Tease’ for a kissable, but “very natural effect.”
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createdAt:Tue, 18 Jul 2017 19:01:26 +0000